The Bignotti to Newton Lane (B2NL) Trip was conducted as planned and was successful. The trip took 4 hours and covered 9.45 miles according to the GPS track log. We suspect the actual length was closer to 9 miles due to scouting activity at an irrigation diversion and a channel blockage.
We arrived at Bignotti shortly before 10:30 am. We scouted the upper portion of Bignotti. Someone has piled up the tumbleweeds and there is a clear and easy (although sandy) path to the riverbank. Unfortunately, the bank at this location is too steep to use for a canoe. We decided to use the lower access point that we used at the end of the Bridgeport to Bignotti trip. We spent time using bow saws, loppers and hand clippers to clean a clear pathway from the parking area to the river bank. Although still not an easy ingress, it is much better than before. We also put survey flagging in a willow tree at this point. (See commentary.)
The air temperature at time of launch was 53 degrees. The high for the day took place after our take out and was 64. The water temperature at Bignotti was 44.
After rigging the boat, we discussed various safety procedures and considerations. We reviewed various paddle strokes and also did some stretching. We put into the water and a bald eagle flew low directly overhead. Since there is a riffle immediately below the put-in, we paddled up to the nearest upstream riffle and practiced our strokes in the current and the still water.
The shoreline area on river right becomes a tall limestone bluff less than a half mile below Bignotti. As the river bends to the left here, the channel has a large island. Most of the stream flow is passing to river right at the bottom of the undercut bluff. Our primary rule of paddling is "go where you can see a clear channel." Unfortunately, we could not see a clear channel to river right. We also realized that there would be no boatable channel on river left. After some discussion, we decided to violate our primary rule above. Why?
I reasoned that this portion of the river is run by a commercial outfitter who takes total novice boaters on the "Water to Wine Tour." As noted, we had observed a group of such boaters on our last trip. I reasoned that, although we could not see a clear channel one must exist because it would be illogical for a commercial outfitter to subject novices to dire circumstances. Luckily, this logic was correct and we did not encounter any impassable strainers in the right hand channel. There are a couple of maneuvers that are moderately tricky for canoers but nothing impossible. It's actually quite a challenging and scenic run there at the base of the undercut bluff. No far below this area, we observed the take-out for the Alcantara Winery. There is a prominent "No Trespassing" sign with the winery's logo affixed.
The stretch below the winery has numerous tree obstacles but none are particularly hazardous. All require vigorous and well executed paddling strokes to avoid. The limestone bluff soon switches from river right to river left. This bluff becomes more clifflike and it quite striking. Many large blocks have fallen off this small cliff and lodged in the river channel. It is a short but very beautiful stretch of river. Astute maneuvering continues to be required in this area.
The cliff on river left ends abruptly at the Oak Creek confluence on river left. This is a wonderfully beautiful area and we regretted not having enough time to stop and soak up the beauty. Not far below the confluence is a spot called "Sheep Crossing." In the not too distant past, large herds of sheep were driven across the river here. The large area on river right was a popular public destination until it was developed as a major membership-only RV campground known as Thousand Trails. There is a remnant of public access next to the fence line for the RV development. However, it would be a long and arduous carry from the parking area to the river. It is mostly used by fishermen and sightseers now.
The area below the Sheep Crossing is one giant lake. In acreage this still water lakelike area probably is larger than many of what Arizonans consider to be actual lakes. I joked with Joshua that it is clearly big enough to support numerous jet skis. I've often thought that a skilled wind surfer could have a blast on this lake.
The reason for the lake is simple enough: there's a large diversion dam on the downstream end of the lake. It is one of the largest diversion dams on the river, ranking behind only the Cottonwood and Verde Ditch diversions. It's definitely larger than Diamond S. Water drawn from the river here goes into a ditch system on river left and is the primary irrigation water for ag lands on the Yavapai-Apache Nation Reservation.
We scouted the entire dam from the ditch inlet on river left all the way across the face of the dame to far river right. We scouted both from the canoe and on foot below the dam itself. We concluded the only safe portage would be far river right. The portage here is not too complex but care should be exercised because of rough rocks, surfaces and even a large 2-inch diameter woven wire cable. After the portage, one must push the canoe through two small, shallow channels to reach water deep enough to paddle. As diversion dams go, this is a relatively easy portage once you know where the portage is actually located. Any portage at higher flows could be far more problematic that the low flow we enjoyed.
The area below this dam is very beautiful. The riparian areas from the dam to Newton Lane appear to have fully recovered from the devastating 1980's and 1990's 100-year floods. There is a substantial willow gallery forest-in-the-making on both sides of the river. At one point, we stopped to scout a cluster of willows that had become established in the middle of the river. Although perhaps technically "runnable," we decided to be prudent and error on the side of safety. The portage was very easy as we simply towed the boat over some native reeds. At higher flows, the area of the reeds would present a clean run of this spot.
The channel in this area is mostly wide open and free of obstructions. It is very beautiful even in leafless wintertime. We were surprised to find a significant obstruction at the confluence of Hayfield Draw. Naturally, there is a large alluvial fan at Hayfield Draw and it makes a nice pull out. Several willows on river left have bent down over the river. The trunks of two willows are low enough to make passage nearly impossible. The branches of the other willows create quite a thicket. At first we thought we would have to portage by carrying the boat around these trees. However, after careful study, we discerned a lining route through the trees. By wading carefully through the vegetation, we were able to get the boat around this area in short order.
Once again, the channel opens up and we marveled at the beauty of the native riparian species and the lack of invasive reeds and tamarisks. It's very beautiful stretch of river and only a handful of structures are noticeable.
While enjoying ourselves in this area we paddled to a complete dead end. The river simply stopped. Thinking we had missed a channel, we paddled far back up into the still pool. No channel. No river. All of the river flow simply filtered left through a dense, thick, debris-clogged native willow forest. We could see no hint of any channel even half as wide as a canoe. We paddled down to the far end of the pool here and got out to scout.
We walked down about halfway through the lateral thickness of the forest. We'd estimate that its width ranged from 50 to 150 feet. I waded out as far as I dared into the forest and could see no hint of anything resembling a lining route, let alone a paddle-capable route. Finally, we walked to the downstream side of this forest, thinking that this would be where we would put the boat back in after portaging. However, we looked farther downstream and were chagrined to see a river-wide willow fence of mature trees which had in turn collected the usual assortment of natural and man made detritus. We trudged down to see the scope and extent of this obstacle. It was then that we realized we had a very long and arduous portage ahead. We didn't measure it but we think it was at least 200 yards and maybe as long as 300 yards. Luckily, there was a clear route across a large alluvial fan that had been discharged from a dry wash on river right. About two-thirds of the portage route was sand and gravel and about one third was medium size cobbles and some larger rocks.
We each used a 15-foot NRS strap to loop through the front grab handle of the canoe. We made shoulder harnesses and evenly distributed the weight of the boat as we towed it on the long portage. This type of a portage is very hard on the hull of a canoe. Luckily, the Mad River Explorer is built to take this type of hard usage.
The re-entry to the river below these obstacles is very tricky so we turned the canoe stern first to give Joshua more room to kneel in the boat. Also, in this configuration, the canoe turns much more quickly (even if it is tippier) and we were able to make the correct moves to reach safe water once again.
Most of the river channel below this point is clean and clear. There are a few strainers here and there that require much attention and careful maneuvering. One was so tight we had to actually use the tree branches themselves to pull our way through the tiny slot. Luckily, at this spot, there is no real current to worry about pinning the canoe onto the tree.
There is another smaller diversion dam that requires a very short and easy portage. The last time I paddled this stretch of river was in March 2007. The flow was roughly about the same as we experienced yesterday. However, I did not recall much about a particular spot. After we finished the short portage at the small dam, I noticed signs of whitewater ahead. We donned our helmets and I then remembered that there is actually a genuine bedrock rapid located here. The Verde River flows directly over a large area of eroded Verde Limestone. The rapid has three sections. The very first might be a Class One. The second is definitely a Class One and the third and final drop is easily a Class Two. At yesterday's flow, it's possible some canoers might rank it as a tough Class Two or even a Three (for canoes). Note that for an inflatable kayak it would be a real easy Class Two, maybe even just a Class One. (See commentary)
We were quite lucky to get through the lower drop upright and dry. The canoe hit a portion of the bedrock and turned sideways as it approached the small wannabe keeper wave and possible wrap rock at the bottom. Luckily, we both made the correct strokes and paddle braces to avoid being flipped here.
There is a dry wash on river right not far above Newton Lane. At some point within the past year or two, a summer monsoon discharge dumped a large alluvial fan into the river. We suspect that this fan at one time extended the full width of the river. We suspect that a subsequent higher flow eventually carved out a channel on river left. It's quite rocky but makes for an exciting and fun ride. It doesn't deserve a rating as a genuine rapid but it sure is a notable riffle.
We had hoped to arrive at Newton Lane at 3 pm but arrived instead at 3:15 pm. As usual the Newton Lane RAP road is in marginal condition best suited to high clearance (and maybe even 4x4) vehicles. Luckily, our little Nissan was able to climb up the slippery slope with only minimal loss of traction. The passengers were forced to walk this slope. Their extra weight would have probably changed the outcome of our exist from this area. (See commentary.)
We consider this stretch to be the most natural and scenic stretch of the river in the entire Verde Valley between Tuzigoot Bridge and Beasley Flats. Why? Here are the reasons: 1) Condition of natural riparian areas; 2) Scenic beauty of bluffs, cliffs and other natural features; 3) Challenging water features; 4) Expansive Beauty of natural river channel ; and 5) Lack of visible man-made features. As the native riparian species have grown in size, so have they shielded from view many of the previously visible man-made features. Compared to other stretches of the Verde inside the valley, there are negligible visual impacts from man-made features. Due to the mandatory portages and long distance between public river access points, it is likely that this stretch will never receive much usage and paddlers will therefore be unlikely to encounter other boaters.
I think I've forgotten a portage in there someplace. I will review the digital voice notes and make amendments as needed. This is a first draft completed at 12:30 pm, February 8. As amendments are made, we will note their date and time.
Cheers, jp
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